I felt trepidation about our upcoming tour to visit with the Karen Hill Tribe in a Chiang Mai Long Neck village. We had seen the iconic photos of the Karen Long Neck Tribe women in National Geographic and other publications over the years. After some debate we decided that wanted to see them for himself and learn of the realities that lead to this unique state of existence.
A stop at the long neck Karen village Chiang Mai is included in many local tours. If you are visiting Chiang Mai Thailand, there is a decent chance that you will need to think about whether a Chiang Mai hill tribe tour is right for you. The issue is complex. Here is some background and some thing to consider when deciding how you feel about this sensitive topic.
If you enjoy my writing about our visit to the Karen Tribe Chiang Mai, check out these other great, culturally oriented posts:
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Our Experience Visiting the Karen Hill Tribe Village
Before the tour, the whole thing honestly felt awkward to me. We did not have the time in our itinerary to take a longer Chiang Rai tour to visit an actual, living hill tribe village. The village that we would be going to would be a village created solely for tourists. I worried that it would be like viewing exhibits in a human zoo.
As it turns out, my worries were not completely unfounded. There was some awkwardness to the whole thing. Normally, my internal compass would automatically categorize such a visit as “wrong”. Before we left for the trip, I told myself that I did not want to go on a tour like this, based on reading about the experiences that others had had on such tours. I discovered during our visit that the story of the Karen women and how the came to be in this awkward and artificial environment is not a simple story of black and white, right and wrong.
How the Karen Hill Tribe Got to Thailand
The Karen Hill Tribe has come from Burma to escape the longtime conflict between the people and the government in Burma. They are refugees in Thailand without any real legal status, so there are limited options for them to integrate into the rest of Thai society.
I was told that those without rings could get a permit to go into town and work, but those who do wear the rings around their neck are virtually held captive by them, trapped in these tourist villages because there is really nothing else that they can do.
The Realities of Wearing Those Neck Rings
The tourist trade is encouraging more girls to wear the rings, which severely limits their freedom to live their lives the way that they want to. In the traditional beliefs of the Karen people, only girls born during a certain time of the moon phase were required to wear the rings. Now, because we are willing to pay money to see them, more girls are electing to wear the rings.
The heavy neck rings don’t actually stretch the neck out, but the weight of them depress the collar bones and shoulder blades causing permanent physical damage. After a point the extensive damage is permanent and cannot be repaired. One of the Karen women explained to us that the girls are started with the rings when they are 5 or 6 years of age.
At the age of 15, they are given the choice to continue wearing or take them off. If they continue to wear them into adulthood, they are not supposed to be able to take them off. This is because their neck muscles won’t be strong enough to support their heads and their windpipes could collapse. We were told stories of Karen women who have taken off their rings and survived, but it was a long process of recovery.
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If you are looking for a way to help the Karen tribe or to get more information about their situation, the Karen Hill Tribes Trust is a great resource to explore!
The Big Picture – Weighing the Pros and Cons of Visiting the Karen Hill Tribe
There are approximately 140,000 refugees from Burma living in Thailand as of the date of this writing. There has been talk by the Thai government recently about sending the Burmese refugees back to Burma, but according to this article they won’t do that until it is safe for them to go back. So, until then, these refugees are stuck in between, not having any legal status in Thailand and not able to return to their homes in Burma.
In conversation over breakfast one morning, I asked one of the owners at a resort that we were staying at if she thought that this was right. She responded to me with another question that made me think, “Is it better for them to be here and working in a tourist village making money to take care of their families with their kids in school in Thailand, or to be back in Burma?”
The answer for me is wholeheartedly that it seems better for the Long Neck Karen Chiang Mai to be in Thailand than in Burma, even if their current living situation is far from ideal. The political situation in Burma has not improved since the release from house arrest of political activist Aung Saan Su Kyi in 2010 (and since her subsequent election). Indeed, things are far from rosy over there now.
When deciding whether to take a Chiang Mai Hill Tribe tour to see the unique, long neck women of the Karen Hill Tribe, there are a lot of complicated issues that need consideration. You will have to weigh these for yourself against your own moral compass.
While it felt awkward and contrived to visit the Chiang Mai Long Neck village, I am glad that we went. It transformed these women in my mind from being a picture that I had seen in a magazine to real people who are suffering from a real conflict on the other side of the world as I am typing this right now.
UPDATE: The political situation surrounding the Karen Long Neck Tribe and other Burmese refugees in Thailand is ongoing. Here is a link to the page of the UN Refugee Agency with the latest news and updates.